A Case of Questions with Kalia Christoforou, Sommelier

Ask any hardcore Cypriot and they will tell you there's someone from The Rock on every corner of the world. Case in point, this blog has tracked down a Cypriot sommelier plying her trade in the City of Angels, a short twelve thousand kilometers away from the center of the world. Yes, Cyprus is dead smack in the middle, you heathens.

Originally from Larnaca, Kalia Christoforou kicked off her professional career as a budding actress, taking on acting opportunities in New York, London, and Los Angeles. As a way to make ends meet, however, she dove headfirst into the food and beverage industry where she has worked as a trainer, operations manager, head of food and beverage, and wine director, a role she has fully embraced. She's even had the opportunity to taste some DRC, as you all know, this blog's unicorn wine. So life must be looking up for her in the fast-paced restaurant world.

Over this past summer, when COVID had given us a seemingly brief respite from lockdowns, investing in crypto out of boredom, and making sourdough starters, Kalia was on The Rock where she visited countless wineries, documenting it all on her Instagram account. [Sarcasm alert!] Since we're so on top of things here on this blog [End of sarcasm alert!], we reached out to get her take on Cypriot wine after not having visited the island for more than five years.

Why wine?

I didn’t choose wine. Wine chose me. I've never dreamed or imagined myself being involved in such an industry.

Wine came into my life by a pure accident, and it has stuck with me ever since. Why wine? Wine because it brings people together. Wine because it makes people happy. Wine because it's the healthiest and most ancient alcoholic beverage, also connected to longevity. Wine because it allows you to taste part of the land's history, the culture and tradition. And wine simply because it tastes great.

First wine that really captured your attention? How old were you?

One of the perks of working in the hospitality industry is the fact that you get to try some really good food and wine. You would expect me to say that the first wine that captured my attention was either a bottle of elegant DRC, a stunning first growth Bordeaux or a powerful Super Tuscan, but in my case, the story doesn't go like this.

Before I even got the chance to taste many of those legendary wines, back in the days when I started working as a server in New York, I was offered the opportunity to taste an up and coming, at that time, wine from Paso Robles. I was immediately amazed by its beautiful, rich, chocolatey flavor, velvety texture, and complex character. I knew right away that I was tasting something special. That very moment I decided that I wanted to discover and learn more about the amazing world of wine. I never looked back ever since. The wine was Daou Soul of a Lion. I must've been 26 back then.

All-time favorite bottle of wine?

I would say, the one I am about to discover and taste next. For me, there is no such thing as a favorite bottle of wine. Of course, I like the classic, highly regarded ones, but I am always super excited to taste something I haven't had before. Even wines made from uncommon varietals, inexpensive yet of a great quality, from non-popular wine regions. It is a very hard question to answer because I tend to enjoy and appreciate many different ones, depending on my mood, the food I am eating, the time of day, the season and year.

With one of the blog's favorite Cypriot reds!

Favorite wine-producing region? Why?

I honestly don't have a favorite one. There are wines I like and don't like from many different wine regions. I generally tend to gravitate towards the old world, classic wine regions as they offer more versatility, complexity, and character than the new world ones, that offer the same consistent yet very predictable flavor profiles. After all, I get bored easily.

Your favorite food-and-wine pairing?

I can't stay away from the classic pairing of cheese, bread, and wine. For example: A white or red Burgundy with a nice soft brie cheese and sourdough bread. Even a Greek salad with fresh juicy tomatoes, feta cheese, olives, and a soft pitta bread paired with a good quality Chablis, Assyrtiko or Xynisteri. I can literally live on just that for the rest of my life. Champagne and caviar is another favorite, but who can have that on a regular basis? In addition to the above, if I was to choose a not-so-common favorite pairing that would be grilled salmon with a nice Pinot Noir or a Cru Beaujolais.

What is Cyprus missing when it comes to wine?

Over the past 20 years winemaking has improved so much in Cyprus. The younger generation of winemakers study abroad, expand their knowledge, and return with a great thirst and energy to innovate the way they approach the local indigenous varieties to showcase their best potentials. I've been honestly very impressed by the passion and love some of these producers put into their wines.

One thing that's missing, in my opinion, is maybe a little bit more support from the government, to help them market their products correctly, promote, and introduce our unique and amazing wines (including the most quintessential Cypriot wine, of course, Commandaria), to the rest of the world. I've seen great efforts being made by many Cypriot producers, however, fighting alone isn't always easy nor enough. Until recently, both Greek and Cypriot wines had a bad reputation of being nothing but vinegar to the rest of the world. This isn't at all accurate and well, it is certainly time to change this false misconception.

Checking this year's vintage on The Rock

What do you foresee for Cyprus’s wine industry?

Worldwide recognition. I am ashamed to admit that I didn't think much of Cypriot wines till I was convinced otherwise. Upon my recent visit to the island, after five years, I was introduced to some phenomenal local varieties that can produce delicious, good quality wines. Even a more sophisticated version of a well-crafted, beautifully aged Commandaria, nothing like the ones I had in the past, left me by surprise.

I see a great future ahead for the Cypriot wine industry. Not only do we have so many talented and skillful producers, as well as unique raw materials, but wine culture around the world has been shifting in our favor. More and more wine professionals and wine lovers are turning toward the not so common, non-classic wine regions, in pursuit of new uncommon yet very old wine grape varietals as well as old traditional techniques.

What Cypriot wine would you match with grilled halloumi, The Rock’s greatest contribution to mankind?

Halloumi is a unique type of cheese that's extremely versatile. It changes flavor profile and texture depending on its preparation. It can be served hot or cold, sweet or savory. Even though there are a lot of wines that pair well with it, I would say that a nice off-dry Riesling (to balance the salty element of the cheese) or Xynisteri (to complement its mild delicate flavor) will be perfect. However, the best pairing for Halloumi cheese, in my opinion, would be nothing else but Commandaria. The rich, sweet, raisiny, toffee and caramel flavors combined with the salty, slightly tangy yet super delightful Halloumi cheese, can provide a wonderful contrast of flavors, leading to a match made in heaven.

What do you enjoy most about your work in the food & wine world?

The fact that it gives you the opportunity to eat and drink like a king without having to be one. Taste things you couldn't afford tasting otherwise.

All jokes aside, I love the interaction with people. The fact that I get to entertain, educate, and introduce restaurant guests to things they never had before, creating a unique and memorable experience for them that way. I also enjoy the sense of community that surrounds the restaurant world. The fact that it allows you to expand your network, meet amazing people from around the world, and connect with other professionals who happen to share the same passion and interests as you.

Kalia at Vassilikon Winery (?)

Who is your favorite wine personality? Why?

Barbe-Nicole Ponsardin (AKA Madame Cliquot). Not only was she the first lady in the Champagne industry, but she was also an extremely smart pioneer as well as a talented businesswoman. She invented the riddling table in 1816, transforming champagne into the clear, effervescent drink we all know and love today. There is a lot to learn from such a powerhouse of a woman, on a professional level. Driven from the story, she teaches all of us that the way to success is determination, fearlessness, having a progressive way of thinking, remaining focused, and having good faith and great passion for what you do.

Any embarrassing episodes involving spilled wine, corkscrews, sommeliers, or drunken behavior?

I had a guest one time who got kicked out of the restaurant, on a busy night, because he and his 3 friends got super drunk and started to misbehave. They then showed up the next day around 4:30pm, stood at the bar and said that they wished to make up for the previous night's incident. He requested the wine list and placed an order for a $3000 bottle of DRC "Corton". He immediately offered myself and my boss a glass while insisting on pouring the wine himself. Before you even know it, the entire wine was spilled all over the bar counter. He then turned towards me, apologized, and so casually asked me to bring another bottle which he let me handle this time. Despite the crazy incident, they only stayed at the restaurant for 30 minutes, paid for both bottles and left. It was the most random, easiest, and fastest $6500 I've seen a restaurant make so far in my restaurant experience.

Of course, your all-time favorite Cypriot (or other island) wine?

There are truly so many different ones I like. However, you can't go wrong with a good quality Xynisteri or Assyrtiko when it comes to whites and a well-made Maratheftiko or Yiannoudi even, from the reds. To show my respect to all the producers, I'd rather not mention specific names.

You can reach Kalia on Instagram and LinkedIn.

A Case of Questions with Chuck Byers, Canadian Wine Journalist & Television Producer

From the land that gifted us Alanis Morissette, Ryan Reynolds, Wayne Gretzky and the indomitable maple syrup comes the blog's latest interviewee.

Chuck Byers, who ended up in Canada by way of Malta, has had a passion for wine since 1972 when a friend introduced him to a vintage bottle that is still in his possession, albeit empty. Following some preliminary studies in wine, Chuck jumped head in, penning a popular newspaper column on our favorite beverage and working on a series of local television shows titled Wine Companions, Wine Talk and Wine Dining. It's been a steady climb up since then, both as a wine writer and television producer, authoring books left and right and setting up many series covering far-flung wine regions in Canada, Europe and beyond. Chuck is a proud member of Canada's Wine Writer's Circle and the Circle of Wine Writers in the UK, and has been fortunate enough to visit us here on The Rock as part of his adventures in wine.

What does our first Canadian guest have to say about Cypriot wine? Find out below!

Why wine?

I got into wine for all the wrong reasons. I was working in an office and felt that I needed some form of raison d'être to impress my fellow workers. Keep in mind this was the early 70's and the “James Bond Era” was in full swing. I wanted to have a “shaken not stirred” persona. So, what better way to get “noticed” than to become known as a knowledgeable wine person? I purchased a book by New York wine columnist Terry Robards and read and reread it! I began purchasing wine from the Rare Wine Store and studying each bottle. My attempt to become “impressive” backfired in a way since I found out that wine was more than just a beverage. Wine was history, geography, science and culture and, most of all, wine was indicative to humanity. I became intrigued with the many aspects of wine in history and each bottle developed a whole profile in that what I was holding in my hands had living, historical and geographical significance. I was “hooked.”

When I open a bottle of wine, I realize the labour that went into making it: the dreams of the winemaker and the people and region it comes from. I also think of the time aspect of when it was made! What was going on in its world at the time and also what was going on in my world. So much to ponder and reflect. A good example is Cyprus. When I taste a Commandaria, visions of Richard the Lion Heart spring to mind such as the events leading up to his wedding on the island. I also think of the massive history of Cyprus and its people. Aphrodite, ancient history and Achilles. There is so much involved with wine that one can never know it all and that is what I love most about wine. Always a discovery!

First wine that really captured your attention? How old were you?

My first foray into wine and one that certainly captured my attention was when I was seven years old. I had been a fan of pirate movies and always saw them gulping down copious amounts of wine. My mom had a bottle of red wine on the table getting ready for some celebration and I snuck a huge gulp. I ran to the washroom and spat the harsh, mouth-puckering beverage out into the sink and wondered what all the fuss was about. I never tried wine again (albeit a bit of sacramental wine, which was quite sweet) for a few years.

All-time favorite bottle of wine?

In much of my writing I have always contended that atmosphere was about 75 percent of the contributor when it comes to enjoying wine. The “all-time” favourite and memorable wine was a simple bottle of Yago, wrapped in a burlap bag, some 40 years plus ago. I remember coming home from work on the afternoon of a beautiful sunny day. Upon entering my home, I was greeted with the smell of a beef stew that my wife was making at the time. On the television was a movie called King's Pirate. I opened the bottle and cut up some crusty bread and helped myself to the stew. It was divine.

The wine was not even close to being expensive but, to truly be memorable, all the parts have to come together. I have tasted some of the world's best, and make no mistake about it, they are superb wines. However, while the quality does impress in an esoteric way, true memorable experiences have a combination of factors that make them so!

A postscript to this is a time that I was visiting my in-laws in Malta. My brother-in-law took us to a seaside restaurant. The evening was perfect and my meal was a mushroom smothered filet mignon. We laughed and enjoyed each other's company and the bottle of La Valette red wine was absolutely perfect with the meal. Again, the wine was not one of great price or reputation but it was so perfect for that evening. Enough said!

Favorite wine-producing region? Why?

Very difficult to say which is my favourite since each region has its specialties. I loved Umbria's Montefalco region for its superb Sagrantino grape and the super cuisine, as well as the beauty of the countryside. Malta is my home country and of course I have a liking for its wine. Cyprus comes close to being one of my most favourite areas. Anyone who has experienced the Troodos Mountains knows what I mean and of course the ancient grape varieties are amazing. So many regions and so many wines!

I guess if I had to pick my favourite I would have to pick a tie between the Similkameen Valley of British Columbia and Prince Edward County in Ontario. The Similkameen Valley is unique as it is part of the northern extension of the Sonoran Desert and Canada's only desert area. It has many superb wineries that produce concentrated red wines and delicious white wines. Canada's answer to Burgundy is Prince Edward County, which relishes its Pinot Noir and Cabernet Franc varieties.

However, truly, I say every region I have been to around the world has its own uniqueness that cannot be emulated elsewhere. Anyone who has tried a Cypriot red Maratheftiko or white Xynisteri from Cyprus knows what I mean. Then there are the superb wines from Nova Scotia where French hybrids show that they can make some of the best wine anywhere. The Marechal Foch from wineries such as Jost Vineyards has to be tasted to truly understand their potential. Up and coming are the wines of Prince Edward Island and anyone who has visited the Eastern townships of Canada's Quebec Province knows of the breathtaking scenery and fine wine. Then of course is Portugal with its historic regions and wines. Every wine region in every country has its special places.

Visiting Hadjiantonas Winery in Limassol

Your favorite food-and-wine pairing?

Nothing beats a large fillet mignon and a bold Syrah or Malbec. I have enjoyed it with many wines but I love that combination. My meat is medium cooked and the wine with at least five years of age! The delicious blending of wine and meat is heavenly. As a runner-up, I love salmon fillet with Pinot Noir either from Prince Edward County or Niagara.

What is Cyprus missing when it comes to wine?
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The only thing that is missing is probably a price point to make it marketable around the globe. I fully support the trend of wineries moving toward their “indigenous” grape varieties. These ancient grapes are worthy of saving. I have also been impressed with the use of cosmopolitan varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. In fact, when I was last in Cyprus, I went to a winery called Tsiakkas and tasted a super Merlot that was so concentrated that it had me fooled. However, globally, there is a flood of Merlot, Cabernet and Chardonnay in the market. It would be nice if more of the indigenous wines were able to make it to market. The beginning would be or could be if the wines were in demand locally. Visitors to the island need to know that these wines exist and thus can develop a taste for them. Education here is the key. Personally, I love Cypriot wines and food!

What do you foresee for Cyprus’s wine industry?
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This pandemic tragedy has not been kind to any country with wine. So the road up will be even more difficult. The financial situation in Cyprus also is a factor. At this point Cyprus must reach out and educate those wine writers about its wine and cuisine. When the pandemic is lessened and people start traveling more, writers must be encouraged to write about the great wines and cuisine of Cyprus. I would be more than willing to encourage those to come down. To save the country money, I would suggest that a cost sharing model be encouraged with writers such that they pay for their air travel expenses while Cyprus covers the land portion. Fair. Unless a massive form of education takes place, I fear that not only Cypriot vineyards will suffer, but also all vineyards around the globe will suffer with the small wineries being affected first.

What Cypriot wine would you match with grilled halloumi, The Rock’s greatest contribution to mankind?
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Fikardos’ blend of Mataro and Cabernet rosé would be a nice match. For more of an indigenous taste, I would have rosés from Tsiakkis, Zambartas and Ezousa. While a Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc or Xynisteri would go well, I would think that a rosé would fill my bill! Light, refreshing and a nice acidity to cut through the cheese’s creaminess. 

 

I smell Maratheftiko

 
What do you enjoy most about your work in the food & wine world?

Of course, I love the travel and meeting new and interesting people, as well as making lifelong friends with those I meet. It is the endless or seemingly endless types of wine and varieties of grapes that has kept my interest in wine going. No one can call him or herself an expert since that entails knowing everything about the subject but there is so much and, after some 40 years, I find that I have merely scratched the surface on the subject. Food is also in that genre since never have I visited a place or country and been bored with the same old. It is this endless variety that keeps my mind moving forward. I would care to say that I do not believe I will ever reach the summit of completeness even if I lived for five lifetimes.
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Who is your favorite wine personality? Why?

You do ask very open questions since I have met so many that I like. My mentor was the late great Alex Eberspaecher who was a great writer/consultant in travel, food and wine. He inspired me to move forward and took me under his wing. Alex will always be the one who made me “jump” from merely writing about wine to living it.

One of my favourites has always been Canadian author and columnist Tony Aspler. I have followed his exploits and his writings. The author who I began studying wine “with” was one I never met or spoke to. Terry Robards was the columnist for the New York Times and wrote a book aptly called “New York Times Book of Wine.” This was and will always be the book that I “cut” my teeth on. I read and reread his book until I could almost quote it from memory. I can say without a doubt that, other than Alex, he is my favourite personality. I have had the pleasure of meeting so many wine personalities but the above two or three were the ones who influenced me the most.

Any embarrassing episodes involving spilled wine, corkscrews, sommeliers or drunken behavior?
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Ah! Yes many! My most embarrassing was many years ago when I was starting out and “feeling my oats”! I was new to the wine field and had a bit of knowledge, which can be very dangerous! I went to a wine tasting at one of Toronto's famous residences called Casa Loma. It was built in castle form at the turn of the 20th century and now was a historic place to visit, as well as hold special events. I arrived somewhat early but found my way to a room that was all prepared with wine buckets and wine bottles out on tables. There was staff preparing tables with bread and butter, etc. So, I wandered around and felt that I could grab a glass and begin tasting; after all, I was invited and was a wine aficionado! I poured a small bit of wine in the glass, smelled, swirled, smelled, sipped, slurped and then spat the wine into one of the buckets. I saw a number of people looking at me funny and one of them who looked very official came over and asked me what I was doing.

“I am here for the tasting,” I said rather indignantly.

“Sir,” came the response, “You are in the wrong room! This is a wedding party. You are tasting the bride's wine and spitting into the flower bucket!” Red-faced, I slid away quickly like the snake I felt like!

On another occasion, I was supposed to give a seminar to a group of restaurateurs. Just prior to going, I accidentally fell and injured my ribs to the point of being in great pain. I did not want to cancel my seminar so I obtained some muscle relaxants from my wife and went. By the time I got there I was feeling no pain but unfortunately my whole bodily functions were compromised. I was demonstrating the proper way to uncork a bottle using a two-pronged wine steward called Ah-So, which one would slide between bottle and cork. I ended up splitting the bottle and causing a mess. Obviously, I never charged the owner for the seminar! Things happen but we use these as learning situations.

Of course, your all-time favorite Cypriot (or other island) wine?
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I love Maratheftiko. The wine has an interesting history and has a very interesting way of propagation. Unlike most vines, it cannot fertilize itself when kept with its own species or variety of vines. Thus, it needs to be grown with other species in order to fulfill its destiny. I find the wine flavourful and concentrated but with a great elegance. I have tasted some older wines made from this grape and found them to be capable of some maturation. The colour can be ruby to purple with cherry and violet on the bouquet. Depending on the winemaker, the wine can have other attributes such as vanilla, oak spice, etc.

You can reach Chuck via his blog and on Facebook or Twitter.

A Case of Questions with Adam Montefiore, Wine Trade Veteran & Wine Writer

The Eastern Mediterranean has a seemingly eternal history of winemaking. Countries such as Israel, Lebanon, Turkey, Greece and Cyprus, to name only a handful, have been making wine for eons and eons, longer even than the time it takes me to compose a blog post.

One of the most important wine personalities chronicling this history, particularly when it comes to Israel, is Adam Montefiore, British born, who moved to Israel more than thirty years ago and devoted his life to championing his adoptive country's wine.

Throughout his career, Adam has worked for Israeli wineries, helped develop a global brand for the country's wine industry, lectured about his drinkable passion at important universities and participated as a judge in international wine competitions. Today, he offers educational services and promotes Israeli wine as a partner in both the Israel Wine Experience and Handcrafted Wines of Israel, while leading his own consultancy through which he helps a number of leading wineries, hotels, restaurants, retailers and private collectors.

Most remarkably, Adam has promoted Israeli and other Eastern Mediterranean wines via his writing. He penned the book The Wine Route of Israel and has contributed to Hugh Johnson's Pocket Wine Book, Oz Clarke's Pocket Wine A-Z and Jancis Robinson's The Oxford Companion to Wine and The World Atlas of Wine. To this day, he works as the wine writer for the Jerusalem Post and is an active member of The Circle of Wine Writers.

Since Adam has visited The Rock and knows Cypriot wine quite well, we thought we'd reach out and see what he has to say about Israel's next door neighbor and the state of its wine industry. L'chayim! 

Why wine?

I started in beer working for Bass Charrington, then the largest brewery and pub owner in the UK, who produced or marketed beer, wines, spirits and soft drinks. The company had wine interests being owners of wine shippers Hedges & Butler, Bordeaux negociants Alexis Lichine and Chateau Lascombes. They put me on a WSET course to make up the numbers in 1979. On completing the course, we were given a copy of Hugh Johnson’s Pocket Wine Book. That was the beginning. Gradually I slipped from beer to wine, which I found more absorbing, complex and broad. Who would know then, that I would later be a contributor to Hugh Johnson’s Pocket Wine Book for, to date, over 25 years?

Why wine? I would like to answer with the famous monologue by Robert Mondavi. Without quoting it in full, I can simply say it ends with the simple sentence “Wine is life.” Through wine I experience agriculture, art, technology, archaeology, history, gastronomy, religion, tourism, geography and peoplehood. It is so much more than a drink. It has a broad literature and I enjoy reading and talking about wine as much as drinking it.

First wine that really captured your attention? How old were you?

The first wine I noticed was Palwin, a sacramental wine, which was served at our Passover meals. This was my earliest wine memory. The wine was red, sweet and to my mind as a child, it was tasty. It was a thrill to drink it, because it felt slightly naughty. With regard to age, seeing the bottle on the table was an early memory. I could have been anything from five years old upwards, but imagine I was a little older when I was allowed to taste it. Whatever age it was, I looked forward to be given a sip of the forbidden fruit.

The first wine I purchased, drank and enjoyed was a brand called Hirondelle. It was a bland, harmless wine with no obvious character, but it was cheap coming in a liter bottle and was easy drinking. Perfect for the new wine drinker. I must have been about twenty when I first purchased this as my first wine of choice.

All-time favorite bottle of wine?

An all-time favorite wine is as difficult to pinpoint as a favorite meal. However, I will never forget the first great wine I drank. It was a Château Mouton Rothschild 1971. This was an epiphany moment. I will never forget the color, the deep concentration of fruit and the aroma of cigar box. For the first time I understood the depth and quality of this subject called wine. It was the first luxury wine I tasted, and though it sounds corny, it really opened a window in my mind.

Favorite wine-producing region? Why?

I love the wines of the Eastern Mediterranean. This is a fascinating wine region that gave wine culture to the world, and in terms of both volume and quality, it really was the France & Italy of ancient times. The region as a whole made terrible wines for 2,000 years but recently there has been a very exciting revival. It is a region of mountains, sea, stony soils, hot sun, indigenous varieties, mud coffee, anise flavored spirits (Arak, Raki & Ouzo) and East Med cuisine, which is becoming so popular. It is also a region where the wine producing countries are unfortunately divided by war, discord and religion. However, taking the Eastern Med countries together, it is a whole new world of wine, in one of the oldest wine producing regions on earth. I have been a passionate advocate of the Eastern Mediterranean as a quality wine region for over thirty years.

Outside the love of my life, my favorite wines are made from Riesling and Pinot Noir. I love Italy, in particular Piedmont and Tuscany, can’t ignore Bordeaux and recently became captivated by Portugal after visiting for the first time.

Your favorite food-and-wine pairing?

I don’t believe in matching food and wine, though as an exercise it is fun and rewarding when you get it right and reach the satisfaction of 1+1=3. I suppose, showing my British roots, a good vintage port and a ripe stilton cheese is a combination that is hard to beat. I also get a kick of drinking food and wine from the same region or terroir. Generally though, I drink the wine I want and the food I want and get along fine. I think we can spend too much time on pretentious exercises. In the end, wine is to enjoy with a meal, but it is important to remember, that the idea of professional tastings, wine scores and competitions, which we spend so much time on in the wine trade, is not really what wine is all about.

What is Cyprus missing when it comes to wine?

A national identity, branding and an international presence. I believe the industry lacks confidence and should be bolder in being outgoing and less provincial. Cypriot wineries have a great product and a wonderful story. I wish the marketing was more international, assertive and informative.

What do you foresee for Cyprus’s wine industry?

The move to higher elevation vineyards and the trend of wineries owning their own vineyards will continue. The wonderful range of indigenous varieties (Maratheftiko, Yiannoudi, Promara, Morokanella, etc.,) will continue to be explored and developed further. Xynisteri is so much better from high altitude vineyards and I have even tasted some old vine Mavros with enchanting aromas. I believe in the wines and am sure we will be hearing a great deal more of Cypriot wine in the future.

What do you enjoy most about your work in the food & wine world?

Food, wine and friends is a holy trinity, like a three-legged stool. If one is missing it all falls. Sharing wine with friends, along with good food is the best. Meeting and learning about people, places and their wines is a wonderful experience. I am so fortunate my hobby is my profession. In any case, in truth we are not in the wine business, but the people business. It is all about connections, with a shared passion.

What is your “Five Year Plan” for your career in the wine industry?

I spent most of my career working with only three companies: Bass Charrington in the UK, and then the Golan Heights Winery and Carmel Winery in Israel. Now I am on my time, independent and self-employed, and having fun. I am the wine writer for the Jerusalem Post, for whom I have written since 2010. I manage my own wine consultancy business and I am a partner in the Israel Wine Experience. My five year plan is to continue what I love to do: writing, educating, consulting and lecturing about wine.

Who is your favorite wine personality? Why?

Two heroes of mine were Robert Mondavi and Baron Philippe de Rothschild, who taught us so much about wine, branding and marketing. They were in my opinion giants and the greatest wine personalities of the 20th century. Both effected change and were great innovators.

Currently, I believe Jancis Robinson MW stands above all others as a wine critic, wine writer and communicator. Her depth of knowledge is unparalleled and she carries her dominant position with grace and generosity. She can produce wine books of the greatest scholastic depth, yet also has the ability to communicate at eye level with the beginner. Hard to believe both these abilities are contained in the same person. What a gift!

I have also enjoyed the beautiful wine literature of Hugh Johnson, who writes like a poet. His books have accompanied me from my first, youthful steps in wine and even now I can lose myself in his prose.

(As a declaration of interest, if relevant, I should point out I contribute to The Oxford Companion To Wine, The World Atlas of Wine and, as already mentioned, The Pocket Wine Book.)

Any embarrassing episodes involving spilled wine, corkscrews, sommeliers or drunken behavior?

Yes many. What comes to mind is a tutored tasting when I nosed a wine and began pontificating about it in great detail. After five minutes of giving intricate details, someone took pity on me and whispered in my ear what was painfully obvious to everyone else: “I think you may be talking about the incorrect wine.” Unfortunately I was on auto-pilot, talking about the next wine on the list, but not about the wine in everyone’s glass! Embarrassing, but hilarious too.

Of course, your all-time favorite Cypriot (or other island) wine?

I can’t name one wine. I enjoyed a ten year old Ezousa Maratheftiko 2009 and an eighteen year old Vasilikon Cabernet Sauvignon 2001. Other wines that come to mind that I will look out for are the Zambartas Xynisteri, Vlassides Shiraz, Zambartas Maratheftiko and Tsiakkas Commandaria. If we are talking tradition, I can’t ignore an old ETKO Centurion Commandaria, but I can’t remember the vintage.

You can reach Adam via his website or LinkedIn.

A Case of Questions with Mark Squires, Journalist, Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

Imagine starting off your professional life as a lawyer and then giving it all up once those velvety tannins, that piercing acidity, the eternal caudalie and notes of [insert your favorite aromas] of a fine wine hit your palate like a teenager struck by wave upon wave of unadulterated lust.

Something like this seemingly happened to Mark Squires, one of Robert Parker Wine Advocate's main wine reviewers. In the late 1980s, following his discovery of fine wine during a series of visits to France, Mark Squires jump-started his second career, teaching wine classes and writing about his newfound love during his spare time as an attorney in Philadelphia. In 1995, he launched his own website, one that established him as a preeminent reviewer, being frequently featured in Food & Wine, the New York Times, the Philadelphia Enquirer and Business Week. A few years later, Mark Squires joined the Wine Advocate team, becoming the company's go-to guy on all-things Portugal (lucky man!), while also covering Eastern Europe, Virginia (Go Hoos!) and our beloved Rock, among others.

We've miraculously managed to snag an interview with Mark, who had plenty to say about Cypriot wines and his rise as a wine journalist from the ashes of the legal world. Whatever you do, read his embarrassing episode involving wine; it's one of the best we've featured so far. First growth "blend" anyone?

Why wine? 

I tried some. I liked some. I became obsessed. It's better than being a lawyer.

First wine that really captured your attention? How old were you? 

As a child I was introduced on occasion to hideous sweet wines largely for religious events. It's a wonder I ever tried wine again. But I eventually came to like things like Mouton Cadet in my early 20s. It didn't get serious for another few years though—when I started trying things like Mouton Rothschild, Mondavi Reserve Cabernet and Arnoux Vosne-Romanée.

All-time favorite bottle of wine? 

Impossible to answer—depends on the mood, the occasion, the meal. I have never believed in "it has to be this one." I'm eclectic and I like many things. I can enjoy inexpensive but interesting wines just as much as fabulous trophies. In fact, these days I'm kind of sick of trophy wines. Too much money for too little thrill.

With Manuel Lobo of Quinta do Crasto in Douro

Favorite wine-producing region? Why? 

As suggested in the prior answer, I'm eclectic. I like some things more than others, to be sure, but I like diversity. Many things that aren't absolute favorites still have a place. It would be boring to drink the same things over and again, even if they were my absolute favorites. That said, I do especially like Bordeaux, Riesling from various places, and Port from Portugal. But a lot of times I'm reaching for Moschofilero or Loureiro or...well, there is no end to this answer in theory.

Your favorite food-and-wine pairing? 

I think Cab'n'Cow—that is steak and Cabernet Sauvignon (or a blend). I have to say in white that Assyrtiko (maybe especially oaked Assyrtiko) goes very well with linguini and white clam sauce.

What is Cyprus missing when it comes to wine? 

Cyprus has some interesting grapes—which I feel is important in terms of creating an identity. But it sure is hard work promoting grapes like Morokanella, Promara and Maratheftiko. There needs to be more producers doing these wines AND educating people about them. First, you have to have a critical mass of good producers. Then, you have to work on getting the message out. No one is just going to beat down the door because you have good wines. Both parts matter. Honestly, I think selling wine is harder than making it these days.

With Assyrtiko magician Paris Sigalas at a London event

What do you foresee for Cyprus’s wine industry? 

It's going to be a slow but (hopefully) steady course upwards. I think the days when there is a "big bang" and some region suddenly arrives—those days no longer exist. There is too much competition. Every region like Cyprus has to be prepared to be slow and steady. Take small victories every year. Keep plugging away. Keep educating on the grapes and terroir. Get a foot in the door in international markets. Keeping prying it open, a little at a time. Don't get discouraged.

What do you enjoy most about your work in the food & wine world? 

I love being introduced to new things. I hate being the "same old, same old" guy. I mostly cover emerging regions, and that has given me the ability to see wines from Mantinia, Naoussa, Santorini and so on that I might never have seen. I understand everybody has a lot to choose from. It's hard finding the time to taste everything. This job leads me into interesting areas and makes me pay attention. I've acquired new favorites that I will drink for the rest of my life.

What is your “Five Year Plan” for your career in the wine industry? 

It is probable that I will still be doing this, but I don't really have a five-year plan.

Collecting awards in Lisbon

Who is your favorite wine personality? Why? 

Hard question. So many good choices, but how about Randall Graham (Bonny Doon Vineyard)? He's just so funny.

Any embarrassing episodes involving spilled wine, corkscrews, sommeliers or drunken behavior? 

So many. So many are unprintable. With others, if I told you, I'd have to kill you. Here's a gentle one: I was a member of a group that was having a big night—we had all the first growths in Bordeaux, plus some things like Petrus and what not, from a particular year—1985 as I recall. We had so many wines that, alas, we were even spitting and dumping wines of that caliber a little. Yes, a travesty. (And honestly, that's why I don't like those crazy tastings any more.) The dump/spit bucket was kind of full. One of the guys, drunk, looked at some other clients in the restaurant who were kind of staring us, and decided to go around and offer them pours from the dump bucket. They didn't realize what it was. Everyone seemed happy. I tasted a little too—a blend of Margaux, Latour, Mouton, Haut Brion, Cheval Blanc, etc—it was actually good. If you could ignore the sanitary aspects. Hey, the alcohol kills germs.

Of course, your all-time favorite Cypriot wine? 

I'm a fan of Commandaria, but I always shy away from words like "favorite" and "best." They are too much a matter of taste and a matter of the moment. Let's concentrate on things off-the-beaten-track, and recent, since those are things I'm focusing on now. I really liked the Vouni Panayia 2017 Woman in the Wine Press I just reviewed recently.

You can reach Mark via email, Twitter and Instagram.

A Case of Questions with Susan Kostrzewa, Editor-in-Chief, Wine Enthusiast

As I scour the Internet's endless vats of information, I often come across personalities that have a deep interest in The Rock's wine. It may be a chef with Cypriot roots working abroad or a blogger who's visited Cyprus to write about its indigenous varieties. Regardless of who it is, it's always exciting to come across this treasure trove of names and discover their different opinions on Cyprus wine.

I first came across Susan Kostrzewa's brilliant coverage of Greek wine a few years ago to only later find out she also has a soft spot for The Rock, reviewing Cypriot wines for Wine Enthusiast Magazine, one of the world's leading sources for wine accessories, storage, information, education, events and travel. Susan has been at Wine Enthusiast for the past 14 years, writing and editing wine, food and travel articles, while also serving as the magazine's Editor-in-Chief and overseeing its tasting programs.

Below are her thoughts on Cypriot wine and her career in the wonderful world of wine.

Why wine? 

Wine is connected to fine living, culture, travel, enjoyment, community, celebration, food. All of the great things in life. 

First wine that really captured your attention? How old were you? 

My early appreciation of wine happened when I was living in California. The first wine that really impressed me was a Rochiolo Russian River Valley Pinot Noir from Sonoma. 

All-time favorite bottle of wine? 

That’s a tough one to answer because there are so many delicious wines I have had the privilege to taste. But I think some of my favorite wine moments are connected to memorable travel experiences. Drinking Ken Forrester Chenin Blanc (South Africa) from the back of a safari Jeep with giraffes walking by in the Singita preserve is an example of this…I’ll always remember that bottle and that moment. And of course drinking Commandaria, the oldest named wine in the world, after visiting Petra Tou Romiou was also a once-in-a-lifetime thrill. 

Favorite wine-producing region? Why? 

Another tough question but in all honesty I think Cyprus and Greece are both incredible because of the history of their varieties and the incredibly rich wine cultures and lifestyle they offer. There are not many places in the world that can boast thousands of years of winemaking history and enjoyment. I think this is fascinating to most global wine drinkers and they are still learning about the incredible wines and experiences to be had in these places.

Your favorite food-and-wine pairing? 

I love oysters and Chablis…fresh, clean, always delicious! 

What is Cyprus missing when it comes to wine? 

I would not say they are missing the product…just the exposure. It would be great to see more promotion of the Cypriot wine industry in America via more events and tastings. Cyprus has an incredible wine culture, history, is a beautiful tourism destination…it has all of the elements needed to attract wine lovers. More people need to know about it. 

What do you foresee for Cyprus’s wine industry? 

I think now is the time for regions like Cyprus to tell their story in international markets and definitely to promote the many millennia of wine history found there. American consumers are increasingly adventurous and looking for affordable but delicious new products with an interesting story. Cypriot wines offer this. Producers like Tsiakkas are working hard in new markets and creating world-class products, which helps the entire category. I think if that continues the category will grow in wine-focused markets like New York. It’s also important that sommeliers know about the wines, because when they taste them, they usually fall in love with them and their story. 

What do you enjoy most about your work in the food & wine world? 

Learning something new every day and working with people from so many different cultures. 

What is your “Five Year Plan” for your career in the wine industry? 

Perhaps to eventually travel more and educate people around the world about wine. 

Who is your favorite wine personality? Why? 

Laura Catena, the owner of Bodega Catana Zapata, is an inspiration and a force to be reckoned with. I have great respect for her and her tireless work growing awareness of Argentina. She’s also an emergency room doctor on top of that so she’s a true hero. 

Any embarrassing episodes involving spilled wine, corkscrews, sommeliers or drunken behavior? 

I think like most wine professionals there was a time when I was not very skilled at using a spit bucket at public tastings. I probably missed a few times but that was years ago! I’m a pro now! 

Of course, your all-time favorite island wine? 

A nice, crisp Xynisteri is a great island wine! But I’m pretty partial to Cristal Champagne, and the winemaker at Louis Roederer, Jean-Baptiste Lecaillon, is a true artist. I could happily drink that every day. 😊

You can reach Susan Kostrzewa via email, Instagram and Twitter.

On Making A Grand Entrance

Talk about making a grand entrance. Perched immediately above Omodos, The Rock's (unofficial?) wine capital, Oenou Yi - Ktima Vassiliades stands out like a bottle of La Tâche in a lineup of village blends.

Inaugurated in 2018, Oenou Yi, the brainchild of Limassol's Christodoulos G. Vassiliades, is undoubtedly the blockbuster of wineries in Cyprus. It's luxurious and shiny and hardly shy about using expensive marble, tall windows and mirrors to coat walls and cellar floors and everything else in between. From my description, you'd imagine a gaudy, over-the-top winery styled by a bejeweled Latin American nouveau riche like myself, but it's not. I think the place exudes class and sophistication without overstepping that boundary into tackiness.

The winery, which I believe has been designed as an events and recreation space, includes conference rooms, a small swimming pool, a forthcoming spa, a high-end restaurant (more on this later), a posh tasting room and nautical miles of cellar space. During our short tour, I was mesmerized by the amount of space reserved for oak barrels. Fikardos Fikardou of Fikardos Winery has joked with me in the past about building a squash court in his winery. However, in Oenou Yi's two cellar rooms—one for Commandaria, the other for dry wines—you could build two indoor tennis courts where Baghdatis fans could play Around the World, ideally downing shots of zivania at each crossover, and still have enough room to actually age liters upon liters of wine. Oenou Yi is also planning on building bedrooms or offering space for people to stay in Omodos. I must admit that it's not my preferred style of winery but there's plenty of room for this type of all-inclusive, wine-themed experience in the current Cypriot market.

And the wines they are currently producing show plenty of potential. Aikaterini-Evangelia Mylona, who trained in Spain, France, Argentina and New Zealand and is one of three females winemakers on the island, has worked on a pretty large portfolio of wines ranging from light whites made of Xynisteri to oaked Maratheftiko and Commandaria and everything else in between.

During the tasting, which takes places in their impeccably classy tasting room, Mikhail Vakhromov, who trained in hospitality management and leads the drinking component of the tour, garrulously guided me through my lineup of wines (and will definitely try to sell you a copy of Madeline Puckette's Wine Folly). Mikhail, who doesn't have a background in wine, has been learning on the job and does plenty to engage the customer and keep them interested in what is being tasted. Case in point, if you're visiting, make sure to ask Mikhail to show you how to properly taste zivania—you'll either fully understand the traditional Cypriot drink and all of its nuances or choke on the spirit as the vapors rush up your nostrils and stumble off your stool. Yes, I almost fell.

Personally speaking, my preferred tipples were the 2018 Playia White blend of Xynisteri, Malaga and Assyrtiko, which was a bit fuller and more complex (tropical!) than the 100% Xynisteri, and the 2017 Playia Cuvée Spéciale, which works well with The Rock's favorite charcoal-fueled hobby. A special mention is becoming of the 2016 Geroklima Maratheftiko, a heavy-hitting red that's been aged in new oak for two years. Yes, it's big and bold and woody but there's plenty of jammy fruit, well integrated tannins, and a rounded smoothness that would work wonders with a Stegosaurus-sized, marbled steak. It's definitely not my style of wine but I  enjoyed it enough that I purchased a bottle and will let it sit for three to four years before revisiting.

Now the winery's restaurant, which is called Playia (slope in Greek), was a revelation. With a menu created by Andreas Andreou, the talented chef who put Skinny Fox on The Big Fig's (Nicosia for those of you late to the game) culinary map, the food is the best one can currently find in any winery on The Rock and probably the most gourmet meal anywhere up in the Cypriot mountains.

The menu has been carefully constructed, leaning towards Cypriot-inspired dishes using local ingredients and modern techniques. We kicked off the meal with a salad of baby leaves, crispy halloumi cheese, dried figs, grapes, roasted walnuts, raisins, sesame seeds, and a basil and grape syrup vinaigrette, which was bountiful, fresh and well-balanced, deftly walking the line between sweet and sour. This was followed by a pork loin braised with red wine and aromatic herbs, parsnip purée, coriander seeds, roasted mushrooms, and parsnip roots with a red wine sauce, and tagliatelle with prawns, tomato, basil, parsley, lemon zest, Parmesan cheese, cream and lobster bisque sauce. Both dishes were perfectly executed, packed with flavor and refined in presentation. Plus, I really appreciated the pricing policy on the wines consumed onsite; a glass of wine runs for about three to four Euros and bottles are sold without the typical restaurant markup.

So the next time you're up in Omodos, swing by and pay them a visit. Have a taste of their wines, revel in Playia's well-designed and executed menu, take a dip in their pool. Make a day out of it and live the life of a Latino nouveau riche who's stumbled upon a wealth of wealth here on The Rock. You'll only be doing it with a hell of a lot more class.

Fill Up My Cava - Part II

There are few moments in life when you can confidently say that you are in the presence of greatness. Most of mine, of course, have involved a bottle of wine, molecular gastronomy, live music, a piece of art or a novel that render me speechless and teary-eyed, a fat boy before an overflowing chocolate fountain.

I recently had one of these encounters, an impressive wine tasting hosted by Nicosia's Vinocultura at Aelia Wellness Retreat in Tseri that confirmed Nebbiolo as one of the few chosen varieties to fill up my cava.

Kyprianou, Altare, Karakasis & Barolo

Elio Altare, the legendary Barolo winemaker and grizzled veteran of more than fifty vintages, schlepped his way to The Rock where he guided us through a tasting of eleven of his world-class wines. In his broken English, Elio, a grandfatherly figure with a warm voice and boundless dreams, narrated his story with Nebbiolo and wine-making in northern Italy, assisted by Vinocultura's Andreas Kyprianou and Greece's Master of Wine Yiannis Karakasis.

Elio tells us that everything changed during a 1976 visit to Burgundy alongside Angelo Gaja, arguably the one man responsible for putting Piedmont on the wine map. Historically speaking, Barolos were born as sweet, oxidized wines that were difficult to drink and originally stored on the winery's roof. Precarious conditions didn't help either. Cellars were nary clean and tough to sanitize; Elio recalls potable water only arriving at his family winery in 1962. In Burgundy, after sampling wines that were that much more expensive and different to those being produced in his northern Italian home, Elio shifted gears and following Gaja's lead brought modern wine-making techniques into the region.

At first, everyone opposed him. His parents believed he was soiling Barolo's traditions. Elio, however, stood his ground. "If a son does the same job as the father, the economy takes a step back. The son must do better, that's progress," he tells us. "There's no success without mistakes, without experiments. If you're ambitious, you look for competition with the best."

The Big Boys of the Tasting

With Burgundy clearly on his mind, Elio introduced shorter maceration times and the use of rotary fermenters, which in turn churned out wines with more color, greater stability and nobler tannins. Nowadays, he uses no pesticides (out of respect for his clients), does not filter his wines, and adopts indigenous yeast to maintain the identity of the harvest,  winemaker and terroir.

Elio speaks about wine the same way you or I might speak of the love of our lives. It's that type of love where passion, compromise, disagreement, comfort and doubt come together to create something unique and endless. Elio tells us, "I don't drink a label, I don't drink a name. Wine is a great symphony, it is my job to give it harmony and balance. I make wines for me."

Ultimately, there is this comforting humility that shines through with each one of his words and actions. "I have not created anything, I have just added to the experience of vignerons in Burgundy and California," he affirms.

Here are my thoughts on these wines, which clearly depict what I refer to as the decay of wine tasting notes, i.e., the amount of wine consumed is inversely related to the volume and quality of notes taken.

Amount of Wine Consumed ∝ 1/Volume & Quality of Tasting Notes

This is a scientifically proven formula so don't @ me.

2017 Elio Altare Dolcetto d'Alba - Vibrant red fruit, cherries, licorice, mint and some meatiness in this fruit-forward wine. Tannins are really present but the red forest fruit shines through. Quite long and with an intact purity of fruit.

Dolcetto d'Alba & Friends

2017 Elio Altare Barbera d'Alba - Dark cherries, floral elements, notes of pepper. Silky, sweet tannins with cherries that sing. Not as bright as the Dolcetto d'Alba but a lot fuller. This is a wine I am convinced both The Wife Ph.D., and I could enjoy without argument considering her unhealthy obsession with full-bodied Shiraz.

2011 Elio Altare Larigi Langhe DOC - This was absolutely lovely. A remarkable nose with notes of chocolate, overripe yet bright fruit, potpourri and herbal components, spice, hints of oak. I found the big and heavy nose on this wine to be rather deceptive. Once tasted, it's sprightly, full of life, marked by the type of lightness that I fall head over heels for with a wonderful spicy finish and great length.

2011 Elio Altare La Villa Langhe DOC - Plenty of sweet spice, meaty, an appealing stink and rawness, some chocolate. Very smooth and clean and approachable after seven years.

2011 Elio Altare Giàrborina Langhe Rosso DOC -  Funky, meaty, caramel and sweet spice. Tannins are very firm, very present. Plenty of structure to age but not quite approachable at the moment in my opinion.

2014 Elio Altare Barolo DOCG - I love these noses! Stinky, raw, peppery and meaty. Plenty of sour cherries and a great structure.

The Barolo Lineup

2012 Elio Altare Barolo DOCG - A lot more fruit, floral almost, tannins have softened and wine is now a lot rounder and chewier.

2013 Elio Altare Barolo Arborina DOCG - Soy sauce, meaty with a beautiful body marked by sweet cherries and firm tannins.

2008 Elio Altare Barolo Arborina DOCG - More tertiary aromas, plenty of leather, a lot cleaner and elegant. An all-around balanced wine.

2012 Elio Altare Barolo Cerretta DOCG - Sweet spice, tobacco, meaty, smoky, loaded with cherries, a raspberry finish. Elegant as fuck (I actually wrote this on my notepad), clean, round, integrated tannins. Best wine of the night. By far.

2007 Elio Altare Barolo Cerretta DOCG - Bright fruit, floral, meaty, leathery with a finish marked by tar. Quite mineral with a great structure and tannins that are still alive and kicking. A lot less concentrated than the 2012.

For Part I, click HERE.

For an old blog post on the third variety (region) in my Triumvirate of Taste, click HERE.

Fill Up My Cava - Part I

Eight months ago we moved into a new home and my only desire (besides a massive kitchen where I could pretend to be an insultingly poor man's version of Virgilio Martínez) was to own a wine cellar. 

After countless discussions with local experts, The Wife Ph.D., and I settled for a series of wine fridges, pseudo-cavas that are better prepared to withstand the hellish heat The Rock bears down on our rotting souls come June (or mid-February if you're a Scandinavian retiree).

Obviously, with a great cellar comes great responsibility—to stack it to the brim with bottles upon bottles upon more bottles of one's favorite wines.

If you've been following my journey through wine, I've settled on three red varieties that will outshine all others in what I expect to be the rather temperamental build-up of my collection.

18-Year Old Grand Reserve Anyone?

Back in 2017, courtesy of Photos Photiades Distributors Ltd and Boutari Winery in Greece, I was invited to a mini-vertical tasting of Xinomavro, Greece's most acclaimed red variety that has drawn comparisons to Italy's Nebbiolo and has become since my landing on The Rock twelve long years ago one of my all-time favorite varieties. [Editor's Note: This article is a year late because the hirsute chubster behind this blog is a world-class slacker.]

Drinkers beware, though. Xinomavro (literally meaning 'Sour Black') can be a hard swill to swallow. When young, it can be super tannic, highly acidic and seemingly rough or rustic. These traits, however, have afforded Xinomavro ample opportunity to age gracefully for decades. In its best variations, it can be beautifully perfumed, reminiscent of a field of flowers and damp earth cohabiting with tomatoes drying on their vines, fresh black olive paste and a sour cherry orchard. It's truly awe-inspiring.

The tasting, which was held at Nicosia's most sophisticated food-and-wine haunt, Pralina Experience, was led by Boutari's oenologist Vasilis Georgiou. He started off by emphasizing that the winery's heart lies in Naoussa, Northern Greece's PDO where Xinomavro is queen, and that this variety is his favorite of all. What draws him to this difficult variety? Its versatility and dynamism as a grape—it can produce sparklers, light and heavy rosés, fresh reds and fuller reds destined for aging.

Aging Gracefully

Furthermore, Vasilis said, Xinomavro in Naoussa are terroir-driven wines. Each sub-region within Naoussa delivers a unique wine. For instance, two separate vineyards with a mere 150 meters difference in altitude result in different wines.

When it comes to the actual wine-making, a good discussion started on old school versus new school methods. Vasilis said that new school methods might be used to open the market to Xinomavro but ultimately what people want is the old school, more traditional and rustic style. Georgios Hadjistylianou, who runs the excellent Fat Fish restaurant in Limassol, opined that Naoussa leans more towards Burgundy in style and Vasilis concurred; Boutari's intention is to mimic an international wine but give it a local touch.

Before boring you further, here are some of the wines we tasted and, yes, dear readers, many of these will one day fill up my cava.

2014 Boutari Sparkling Rosé - An experimental bubbly made with Xinomavro. Plenty of red fruit, raspberry, brioche and yeasty notes on the nose. The palate was rather delicate with raspberries and strawberries up front and a toasted-bread-like middle.

2016 Xinomavro Rosé - Another experimental bottle, this one is meant to be a food-friendly rosé. According to Vasilis, the original plan was to make a fashionable, lighter Provence-style rosé, but instead they made this one, which is much darker and has enough weight to be accompanied by food. Bright red fruit, caramel, some herbal touches, really creamy. As Maria Massoura of The Wander Notes succinctly put: "Strawberry panna cotta."

A Few of the Wines Sampled

2015 Boutari Naoussa - Vasilis says that Boutari's entry-level Naoussa serves as the barometer to the vintage's success. It is the winery's generic Xinomavro with grapes picked from all of its different regions. The 2015 was quite woody—it spends twelve months in oak barrels—and marked by aromas of red cherries and strawberries and a hint of black olives, characteristic of the variety. This wine was just okay; very short, clean and simple with a nose that outperformed its palate.

2003 Boutari Naoussa - This wine clearly showed Xinomavro's amazing aging potential. On the nose, plenty of violets, mushrooms, dried red fruit and leather. Once tasted, there was plenty of red fruit still present, many herbal components and a wonderful wet earth and dustiness to it on the finish with a decent acidity for its teenage years.

2012 Boutari Grand Reserve Naoussa - According to Vasilis, the Grand Reserve Naoussa, a great value-for-money bottling, is a wine meant to be aged and it is not released for bad vintages. Furthermore, it spends two years in oak barrels and two additional years aging in the bottle and it's generally made from grapes coming from three specific vineyards—Marina, Trilofos and Polla Nera. This specific vintage comes from a vineyard called Trilofos and is marked by red forest fruit, floral elements and a lovely minty touch. Tannins are very chewy as this wine is still in its infant stage.

2011 Boutari Grand Reserve Naoussa - If I read my notes correctly, this was one of my favorite wines of the tasting. An explosion of truffles on the nose, leather, sweet spice and dark cherries working as one. Plenty of strawberries and mint with black olive pattée on the finish. It has great acidity, firm tannins, a really solid structure that will allow it to go for decades. If my limited knowledge of Naoussa vintages is not betraying me, 2011 was supposedly one of the great ones. By the way, this wine screams to be matched with food.

Xinomavro Screams for Food

1999 Boutari Grand Reserve Naoussa - Another excellent example of this variety's aging prowess. Secondary and tertiary notes are now jumping with joy. Butterscotch toffee, coffee, smoke, leather, black pepper on the nose. The palate paired dehydrated strawberries with plenty of wet earth along many of these other elements.

2007 Boutari Legacy Single Vineyard - This wine is made from a single vineyard (Trilofos) only on exceptional years. If the grapes are not allotted to the Legacy, they are then used to make the Grand Reserve Naoussa. Tomato leaf, black olives, thyme and a wonderful meatiness to this wine. On the palate, plenty of ripe red fruit and a heavy dose of vanilla, courtesy of 12 months in French oak barrels.

[Editor's Note: If any of you readers feels the need to contribute a wine or two to his cava, please contact us to arrange for delivery. I think all he deserves is a good kick in the ass.]