Monday, April 30, 2012

Treasure Hunting

LIDL is a savior. The German discount supermarket chain set up shop on The Rock last year, opening one of many stores in Protaras just a few blocks away from Whine On The Rocks' summer headquarters. Before its time, The Wife, Ph.D., and I had to lug our sun-roasted rinds all the way to Paralimni (fifteen minutes away!) to buy beer, broccoli, beef and bustiers. What's fascinating about shopping at LIDL is the element of surprise. The experience itself isn't posh, but this is made up by dirt cheap prices, excellent product quality and, best of all, the possibility of unearthing edible treasures that weren't there on a previous visit. On separate occasions, I've stumbled upon Weisswurstsenf (the sweet mustard I fell in love with in Munich), risotto with white truffles, chocolate-covered coffee beans, salmon tagliatelle and American marshmallows. Last time around, a bottle of 2011 Santorini Assyrtiko made exclusively for LIDL puppy-eyed me from its shelf and I took her (Is wine male or female? Depends on the variety, right?) home where she spent her last minutes on earth whetting my burning lips. 
 
By the way, LIDL, if you ever lay eyes on this blog, where has all the sweet mustard gone?

2011 LIDL Santorini Assyrtiko - Muted yet fresh bouquet marked by citrus, orange-like aromas. To the mouth, a citrus explosion accompanied by the vibrant acidity associated to the variety. Little minerality, short, not as complex and maybe a tad gloppy compared to higher-end versions. For €4.99, though, definitely worth drinking and great for the upcoming scorch. 84/100.

Tuesday, April 3, 2012

Lick Yourself Clean

If you told me I could take one food item with me to my grave, a juicy, medium-rare beef burger topped with blue cheese would be my first or second choice. The Wife, Ph.D., knows by now that if I see one on the menu (specially if we're stateside, a gourmand's burger heaven), I will order it, devour it and then suck my fingers clean. Unfortunately, The Rock has not been very kind to me when pertaining to a fatty ground chuck patty stuffed between a sliced buttery bun. The meat is generally overcooked—one's rarely asked one's cooking predilection—and loaded with unnecessary spices and herbs. What shines in an excellent burger are the quality of the beef and the toppings selected, and this is forgotten to many local chefs.

Cue Artisans Burgerbar, an eatery that recently opened in Nicosia and caters to The Rock's burger fiends. I prefer my burger joints on the dive rustic side, so I was taken aback when I sauntered in and felt I had entered a typical Nicosia cafe: sleek lines, matching ochre furniture and sparse decor except for several rows of potted plants hanging on a wall above the main dining area and a blackboard used to write down the specials. While chic, it did not immediately inspire me to dive headfirst into a greasy burger. Irrespective of ambiance, though, what needs to be highlighted is Artisans' generous and tasty patty. It's made with 100% Angus Beef (20% fat!) flown in from the U.S. and includes none of those unnecessary ingredients that muddle the meat's flavor. Likewise, it's cooked medium unless you request otherwise. I must admit it's the most classic and well-executed burger I have come across on the island.

Of course, toppings, types of bread—white bun, wholewheat or ciabatta—and side dishes vary and cater to all tastes. First couple of times, I had the whole grain mustard sauce, which I found too overwhelming for the meat, and a well-balanced burger with pancetta, gruyere cheese and barbecue sauce. Then, after receiving multiple requests for a blue cheese burger from those in the know-how, Artisans added one as a special and I was on it like white on rice before it disappeared from the menu. The crumbled blue cheese and some chopped dried figs perfectly complemented the thick patty and had me salivating throughout my meal. Even though the 2008 Domaine Vlassides Cabernet Sauvignon worked well with the blue cheese burger, I so wished I had a bottle of Colorado's Great Divide 17th Anniversary Wood Aged Double IPA (available at Brewfellas) to really round out the experience. This desire only leads me to believe that Artisans should expand its rather limited beer selection since there are fewer things in life that are more rewarding than matching a cold one with a well-made burger.

On a side note, what's up with using cutlery to chow down on a burger? It's a glorified sandwich, people. It ain't rib-eye, it ain't lasagna. Pull up your sleeves. Don't be scared of the juices running down your hands. They will not scar you for life. They will not seep into your pores and make you fat. They are not the mysterious source of vitiligo. The blood/ketchup/mustard/mayonnaise/barbecue-blend might stink up your skin a bit but it's rained plenty this year on The Rock. Water shortages are not a valid excuse for bludgeoning your burger with a fork and knife. Make sweet love to it for God's sake, and later, like the feral cats and me, lick yourself clean.

Whine On The Rocks Rating: 4.5 out of 5 Sparkling Spatulas

Tuesday, March 20, 2012

Fútbol and Death


With little suffering, my paternal grandfather passed away early the morning of the seventh of March. He was ninety-three years old and had a long and rewarding time here on earth. Having spent most of my life outside of Ecuador, I cannot say I was close to the man. He had a disciplinarian streak and was often grumpy. Fussy does not even come close to describing his attitude towards food, a shrimp omelet and white rice his idea—at least in my mind—of a perfect meal. Yet, he was also tender and encouraging, lovingly cupping my cheeks with his frail hand or driving my brothers and me to pick up our favorite pizzas for dinner. One of my fondest childhood memories is of him sitting by my bedside, patting my legs and whispering a lengthy prayer while I tried to sleep and not think about the scary volcanoes looming at a distance or the jets’ rumbling as they made their final approach into Quito’s tricky airport.

As children, my mother and father made sure we traveled to Ecuador once a year to see our grandparents, but as my brothers and I grew older, our own commitment to our studies, professions and families made it harder to visit regularly. I last saw him and my grandmother in 2008 during Christmas. My Cypriot wife and I flew in from Nicosia—our home for now—and spent ten days exchanging stories, laughing and cherishing each other’s unfortunately short company, all the while my better-half courageously using her rudimentary Spanish.

When my mother called that morning about his death, I hardly blinked. My upbringing as somewhat of a nomad who is used to city-hopping and promptly readjusting to change in life certainly helped. I am thirty-four and the longest I’ve been in one place is eight years and that long stint in Bogotá ended nearly a quarter of a century ago. So often I’ve had to say goodbye to new-found friends and family—sometimes temporarily, other times forever—that detaching from all kinds of relationships has come too easily for me. I’m not sure whether there is any value in this personality trait. Perhaps it’s a cover I use to avoid dealing with grief or it simply reveals my true colors as a selfish insensitive human being. Fact is, however, all the moving around has allowed me to handle loss in all of its multifaceted forms.

Little did I know that a strange kind of mourning would creep up on me later that day in the company of nearly twenty three thousand people at GSP Stadium in Nicosia. It was the return leg of the round of sixteen Champions League match-up between APOEL Nicosia, arguably Cyprus’ best team, and Olympique Lyonnais, a French behemoth, and I had a ticket to the east stand.

Minutes before kick-off, the fogged-up sky threatened the crowd with rain. I remember looking up at the GSP stadium’s bright lights. The lampposts drowned in the thin clouds and a ghostly, some would say premonitory, white sheet blanketed the night. The bleachers, however, were electric. On the south end, the hardcore fans, most of them clad in vivid orange or yellow, jumped and sang about how their squad took on Porto, Zenit and Shakhtar. A hooded man, emulating Spider-Man or a typical Argentine football fanatic, clawed his way up the tall fence separating the pitch from the supporters and held up a Greek flag.  A handful of irresponsible fans lit four or five flares, leaving behind a trail of thick smoke and a likely hefty fine for the club from UEFA. Throughout the stadium, cameras and iPhones flashed to capture this historic moment for Cypriot football. Around me, men, women and children were on their toes, giddy in anticipation for the match and hoping their team could revert the 1-0 loss in France.

APOEL’s Serbian coach Ivan Jovanović, who plied his trade as footballer and coach in Greece, moved away from his preferred 4-5-1 counterattacking formation and utilized an aggressive 4-4-2 lineup with Ailton Almeida and Esteban Solari as out-and-out forwards. Wingers Constantinos Charalambides and Gustavo Manduca were set up to feed balls into the area, while Nuno Morais and Helder Sousa were parked in the middle of the pitch to destroy and distribute. Within nine minutes, the coach’s strategic acumen paid off as Charalambides captured a poorly-cleared ball, split a couple of defenders and slid the ball across the box for Manduca to tap into the back of the net. 1-0 APOEL.

Throughout the first half and most of the second, APOEL created a few solid chances with good link-up play between their four attackers. Despite their advantage in possession, most of Lyon’s attacks focused on swinging balls into the area and these were dealt with adroitly by Portugal’s Paulo Jorge and the rest of APOEL’s staunch defense. As players tired and substitutions were made, APOEL switched back to the familiar 4-5-1 line-up and lost some of its incisiveness. In extra-time,  an isolated Ailton, who for some bizarre reason refused to shoot with his left foot, tried to single-handedly take on three French defenders, time and again cutting right and being dispossessed of the ball. After an exhausting two-hour stalemate, Nicosia would bear witness to the most important penalty shootout in Cyprus’ history.

I thought things looked bleak with Manduca, Charalambides and Solari, three of APOEL’s usual penalty takers, watching from the sideline. After Ailton and Morais scored APOEL’s first two strikes and Bafétimbi Gomis beat APOEL’s goalie Dionisis Chiotis to give Lyon a 3-2 lead, Cypriot winger Nektarios Alexandrou, who had entered the match as a substitute in extra-time and performed quite like a perch out of water, walked confidently towards the spot. Many around me worried the stage would prove too immense for a local player who worked his way up APOEL’s youth ranks and into the first team. Alexandrou, though, as fresh as a watermelon in August, rifled a left-footed strike straight down the gut of Hugo Lloris’ goal and once again evened out the tie.

What followed was hypnotic. Alexandre Lacazette, Lyon’s future star, struck low and to his right but Chiotis timed his lunge perfectly and denied the French squad the lead with a breathtaking save. Macedonian international Ivan Tričkovski scored easily for APOEL and put the Cypriot team up for the first time in the shootout. Then, Chiotis, inspired by the crazed cries of thousands, flung his body left and blocked Michelle Bastos’ poorly-taken penalty. The stadium erupted and the yellow-clad players rushed the field, piling onto the match’s hero.

Later, I would find out that APOEL’s goalkeeping coach had studied each of Lyon’s past penalty-takers and told Chiotis exactly where to dive. Right then and there, though, I hoped my grandfather had had a deft hand in that night’s victory, gifting a bright moment in European football history from beyond his deathbed to his oldest grandson. I don’t recall him ever playing football or even being an avid spectator of the sport, but I will live with the belief that on that particular night he was. The skies now clear, I looked up at the lights and my eyes welled up for a few seconds with the fleeting thought of my grandfather saying goodbye touching my heart. I laughed and clapped and prayed “He-Who-Must-Not-Be-Named,” who that same day had put five past a haplessly awestruck Bernd Leno in Catalunya, wouldn’t be next.

Keep in mind that I have some serious issues with APOEL. Too many Greek flags and no Cypriot ones fly in their matches. A small and misguided faction of the fan base has embraced ultra-right-wing ideologies and anti-Semitic emblems as their own. Despite all of this, APOEL’s ballsy yet disciplined performance is a victory for an island that has been rocked by a turbulent and violent history and recent economic hardship. Many among APOEL’s local rivals might not feel pride in this team’s achievements, but it’s impossible for me to see what has been accomplished in any other light. I don’t support football teams. I follow the sport itself—as a beautiful brushstroke, as a battlefield where many times will defeats skill, as a cauldron of mixed emotions. I might have rarely experienced the ninety-minute roller-coaster of a ride reserved for the typical football fan, but I have learned to love and stand behind the place—wherever and whenever that may be—I call home.

On the drive back from the stadium, my wife, who’s not a football fan, woke up at around twelve-thirty a.m. startled by the celebratory commotion out on the streets. We live a few blocks from APOEL fan’s headquarters and the honking, football chants and loud hoorays had taken over the night. She sent me a text message wondering whether APOEL had somehow miraculously gone through to the next round. Knowing all too well he probably had nothing to do with the victory, I selfishly replied “Yep. Penalties. A gift from my grandfather to Cyprus.” I guess we all grieve in our own little ways.

Friday, March 16, 2012

Awards! Awards! Awards!

A Friday quick hitter before I waste the weekend away glued to a television screen watching college basketball. It's that time of the year. Finally. Check out Act II if you're oblivious to the greatest sporting event on earth.

Awards have been handed out for the 2012 Thessaloniki International Wine Competition held from March 8th to 10th in Thessaloniki, Greece. As usual, The Rock's wines performed admirably well, bringing home a handful of Gold and Silver medals and, most importantly, the Grand Gold Medal for the 2002 SODAP Saint Barnabas Commandaria. Below you can find a list of The Rock's victorious entries. Click here for a complete list of winners.

Grand Gold

2002 SODAP Saint Barnabas Commandaria

Gold

2008 SODAP Stroumpeli Merlot
2007 Hadjiantonas Winery Shiraz-Cabernet Sauvignon
2010 Ayia Mavri Winery Mosxatos
2011 Ayia Mavri Winery Mosxatos
2005 Kolios Winery Shiraz
2011 Hadjiantonas Winery Rose
2008 Hadjiantonas Winery Shiraz

Silver

2011 Hadjiantonas Winery Chardonnay

Friday, March 9, 2012

Wine On The Seahorse

After Crete, what's Greece's largest island? Quick, clock's ticking.

Do you see the seahorsey?
If you answered Evia, the seahorse of a rock separated from mainland Greece by the Euripus Strait, then, congrats, you get a well-earned smiley face (or pat on the butt) on this impromptu quiz. At its narrowest, the strait is only thirty-eight meters. So unless you are Greek, a geography or history buff or some sort of mutant with superhuman vision, it's practically impossible to tell it's an island from just looking at a map. I live on this side of the world and I had no clue up until about a week ago that what I thought was a strip of land north of Athens was no other than a bewildering wine-producing rock. I guess this "discovery" could've only occurred thanks to my quasi-obsessive-compulsive need to walk up and down the wine aisle at our local supermarket studying labels instead of picking vegetables for her highness, The Wife, Ph.D.

Anyhow, I've spent the past twenty minutes trying to disinter information on Evia (or Euboea) and its wines and, unfortunately, I've come up (almost) as empty-handed as Olympique Lyonnais the crisp night of March 7th. Here's a brief excerpt on Central Greece from Greekwinemakers.com:
"Central Greece is the traditional stronghold of retsina and plantings are dominated by the Savatianó variety, from which retsina has been most commonly vinified. Savatiano accounts for most of the production in Attika (roughly 90%), a majority in Evia (around 75%) and half of production in Voetia. The Savatianó, historically, was never the exclusive basis for retsina, and until phyloxera arrived in central Greece between the first and second World Wars, was just one of a number of white varieties grown in the region. Today, the Savatianó owes its dominance less to historical preeminance [sic] than to the need to replenish vineyards with a highly productive variety suitable to the climate. Although the grape is characterized by low acidity, it at least has had the advantage of displaying some varietal character when resinated. Low yield farming and modern vinification have resulted in quality un-resinated mono-varietal versions of Savatianó that display the best attributes of the grape."
More specific to the actual island, New Wines of Greece, a portal designed to market indigenous Greek varieties in the US, notes that:
2009 Vriniotis Winery IAMA
"...[u]p until 10 years ago, all that was known of winegrowing [sic] activities in Evia regarded the traditional production methods in the central and southern part of the island. Nevertheless, the particularly successful entrance of northern Evia in the game through cultivation of numerous Greek and international varieties as well as through production of many new wines, created the need for the establishment of a PGI Evia zone. The presence of the native varieties of Vrathiano and Karabraimis is noteworthy as is the Aegean influence (Aidani White, Athiri, Assyrtiko, Liatiko and Mandilaria) due to Evia’s geographical position. At present there are only four area wineries producing PGI Evia wines but their numbers are expected to increase."
"Discovery" made, I updated the blog's approved list of rocks and celebrated accordingly.

2009 Vriniotis Winery IAMA (Syrah and Vradiano blend) - Nice bouquet marked by red fruit, dark chocolate, vanilla and a hint of oak. Raspberries on the palate with great length, firm tannins and a fantastic tart fruit finish. Its awesome acidity had The Wife, Ph.D., and I puckering our lips like babies sucking on lime wedges. 90/100.

Friday, March 2, 2012

Where's All The Si-Silliness Gone?

Allow me to be serious for once in my life. All I hope is that this very brief overview of Nero d'Avola, Sicily's premier red indigenous grape, is not overbearingly pedantic. Or taken over by one hefty paragraph lifted from a revered wine publication since I have never set foot on what I assume is a lovely Italian rock occasionally run asunder by slick-haired mobsters and tempestuous old ladies swinging ratty brooms at immature miscreants for stealing over-sized undergarments that have been hung out to dry.

According to Decanter's March 2012 issue and its sponsored guide on Sicily (pages 70 through 84),
2008 Zisola "Doppiozeta"
"It's the [island's] reds...that have captured the interest of an international market. Nero d'Avola became fashionable in the 1990s, and for good reason. Its bright cherry and plum fruit can be delightful, and more serious, oak-aged versions can have an appealing savoury intensity and lush texture...The heartland of Nero d'Avola is the region north of the coastal town of Agrigento, although Noto in the southeast is often thought to produce the finest and best quality."
The two excellent Sicilian wines I tasted along with The Wife, Ph.D., and My Zolpidem Supplier came from the Zisola Mazzei Estate located in Noto and can be purchased at Cava Inon Pnevmata in Nicosia.

2009 Zisola Mazzei Sicilia IGT (Nero D'Avola) - Nose recalls cherries, raspberries, powdered chocolate, pepper and some greenness. A meaty wine of medium length with juicy tannins and black cherry undertones. 87/100.

2008 Zisola "Doppiozeta" Noto Rosso DOC (60% Nero D'Avola, 30% Syrah and 10% Cabernet Franc) - Leathery, smoked meats, red fruit, vegetables and loads of spice come together in a powerful nose. Some chocolate and vanilla and fantastic meatiness through the mid-palate. Sweet, caramel-like finish. I have another bottle which I will age for a year or two or three and see what's up then. 90/100.

Friday, February 24, 2012

Plonk By Monks?

Do you see what I see?
Few things in this world would beat witnessing the Lord Almighty, Virgin Mary or any of the Apostles emerge sublime and immaculate from the thick and creamy head of a rich Trappist Belgian beer. Doubters might argue you suffered from the hallucinatory effects of one too many Tripels, but sipping on anything lovingly crafted by monks is bound to involve a spiritual awakening of sorts. Soon enough I hope to land in Brussels, hand the keys to the rental car over to The Wife, Ph.D., and drink my way through the six Trappist monasteries in search of apparitions and that elusive case of Westvleteren. Until then, I am content to be sea-locked and chasing visions of heaven in the tears of a wine glass.

There's only one Cypriot winery that has enough clout with God to offer me a religious experience. Near the village of Panagia in Pafos, the Holy Virgin of Chrysorroyiatissa Monastery has been producing wine for more than two centuries. According to Yiannos Constantinou's Cyprus Wine Guide,
"...in September 1984...winemaking at the monastery was really modernized, when the present Abbot Dionysios decided to start operating the winery again. This was the first attempt to set up a regional winery that would restrict its activities to producing limited quantities of wine, in contrast to the large wine factories that dominated wine-production in Cyprus at the time. Today, Chrysorroyiatissa winery turns out around one hundred and fifty thousand bottles of wine annually, produced from grapes grown on some 25 hectares of its own vineyards planted with both local (Xynisteri, Mavro, Maratheftiko, Ofthalmo) as well as imported (Mataro, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Riesling) grape varieties. The winery plans to treble its acreage of vineyards in the next few years."
2009 Monastiri, a Holy Blend.
The monastery is probably best known for its two table wines, Ayios Andronicos, a white wine made of Xynisteri and meant to be consumed young, and Ayios Elias, a simple red quaff of local varieties. Both are decent wines but neither of them had me seeing things. Lo and behold, the Parents-in-Law, after a recent weekend peregrination to the monastery to (I presume) cleanse all sins, brought me a bottle of 2009 Monastiri, a Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Shiraz blend I had no clue the monks made. Alas, let's just say I am still desperately seeking Savior.

2009 Chrysorroyiatissa Monastiri (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Shiraz) - Satisfying aroma marked by blackberries, plum, black pepper, cloves and a light hint of vanilla and chocolate. To the palate, harsh tannins and a noticeable spike in the alcohol that smoothed out once the wine was matched with food and had enough time to breathe. Black fruit predominates in a blend that lacked some flavor in the mid-palate and ultimately failed to pack a punch. 83/100.

Tuesday, February 21, 2012

What A (Ce)Bitch(e)!

Someone—anyone—I beg you please. Send me a good bottle of Cretan Vilana.

I first tasted her in Athens. It was a joyous evening among fancy friends in Psiri, a fashionable neighborhood that once witnessed my drunken crooning of "Besame Mucho," landing me in hot water with The Wife, Ph.D., and on a sidewalk near Exarcheia passed out napping among anarchists. The French Connoisseur handpicked a bottle, which unfortunately was unremarkable and received low scores from those in attendance.

I tried again a few weeks ago in company of The Wife, Ph.D., Cousins #2 and #6, Radio Free Cyprus and My Alternate Personal Skipper (MAPS). On the menu, a fish ceviche matched with homemade tree tomato aji and plantain chips I ordered from Amazon (the website, not the jungle) because The Wife, Ph.D., has placed a ridiculous ban on all kinds of frying in our kitchen. Like a 90-60-90 brunette model strutting her stuff all over the catwalk, the ceviche took center stage. The Cretan whites, however, were tame villains (pun intended) to the ceviche's super powers and fell flat on the runway.

By the way, if you're ever interested in cooking some Ecuadorian food, check out Laylita's. Pretty reliable English recipes of Ecuadorian classics.

2010 Lyrarakis Vilana (Crete, Greece) - Peach, lime and some melon on a pretty nose. However, this fails to translate to the palate as it is very light, a bit flat and quite short and could have benefited from brighter acidity. Maybe it's past its prime (i.e. meant to be drunk real young just like Cyprus rosés) and I should have procured a 2011. 80/100.

2010 Boutari Kretikos (70% Vilana and 30% Other Cretan Varieties) - Some wild herbs and peach in terms of bouquet but even emptier to the palate than the Lyrarakis. Did not feel very fresh. 78/100.